Gut Feelings, Salt Water and The Port Angeles Fishing Fleet (past and present)

18 03 2015

Pink petals from the ornamental plum tree floated by on a Southwest breeze outside the window, catching the eye of the fisherman’s wife inside. The grass was still damp, water droplets on the ends of the waving emerald grass blades glistening in the sun.

The fisherman had already left for the marina, dropping the boy off at school on the way. He was busy tracking down the reason for why the generator, freshly rewound, was producing too much voltage. The cell phone was a constant companion.

The generator issue would get sorted. The fisherman’s wife knew that. She knew to focus on mowing the lawn. Focus on keeping home life stable for the family.

It was transition time.

The fisherman expected to be starting the season in about two weeks. He’d be gone from home then. For possibly weeks at a time. He’d be away from the family, mostly, til the boy was out of school for the summer and able to go fishing. The fisherman’s wife expected to be back on the boat then also. The daughter was now an adult. Old enough to take care of herself either on the boat or at home on land. It was her responsibility to choose where to spend her time.

The boat haul-out had gone well.

All the troubles from a SE Alaska grounding in Icy Bay, a number of fishing seasons before, had finally been completely resolved over the past few Springs in the boat yard.

It was a relief, to the fisherman and his wife, that things were back to the way they should be.

A quick haul-out.

A new stern bearing zinc and fresh blue bottom paint. The red boot stripe giving a nod to the past.

The master welder in the Port of Port Angeles Boatyard had been enlisted to repair a hole in the hull. The one which had happened in a head-on collision, in fog, in California two summers before. The new aluminum pole work brightly reflected the sun. Holes in the generator exhaust pipe had been found in the engine room.

Serious business. Life-threatening.

Holes in exhaust pipe, especially in an engine room, are very bad. Potentially deadly. A local fisherman that the fishing couple had known years before, had died due to carbon monoxide poisoning in an enclosed wheelhouse of a boat. It was why a carbon monoxide detector had been installed on their boat.

The fisherman’s wife had known, earlier that year, that the boat needed to be home for Spring boat work. A gut feeling. She did not know why until she saw the holes in the old exhaust pipe.

Those gut feelings. Any fisherman, any parent, any master craftsman responsible for repairing a working boat – pays attention to them.

In the commercial fishing industry, gut feelings are often the difference between life and death.

After the exhaust pipe had been replaced, there had been a very short impromptu meeting in the boatyard the day that the fisherman and his wife watched their boat being re-launched. For the fisherman, it would be the 45th consecutive Spring that he had been involved in putting a commercial fishing boat in the water. As for his wife, she did not know any different. She had been raised in the fleet.

The master welder was at the small gathering. Also, a newer commercial fisherman that made most of his money in a white collar trade. The new guy had just hauled his boat and was getting ready to pressure hose the bottom. His coding partner was there too.

It was the coding partner that the fisherman’s wife had the most respect for when it came to trolling. He was one of the last. One of the last commercial salmon trollers left in the Port Angeles fleet. He said so himself. He was also one of the last to get into fishing having started as a partner with a brother, and also learning the trade as a deckhand.

It was a near impossible task anymore.

Good boats and permits had become too expensive for most young folks to break into the trade. He had done it the hard way, the old way, the traditional way. That is why the fisherman’s wife respected him so much.

He had crewed for one of the greatest salmon trolling highliners that the West Coast would ever produce. His former captain was one of the “Royal Family”. At 91-years-old, this skipper had passed away just a few weeks before.

The “Royal Family” of the West Coast troll fleet.

The last one of the foursome still living, out of the four highliners in the West Coast troll fleet that comprised “The Royal Family”, was the main subject during that mucky muck meeting in the Port Angeles Boatyard that day. He was an icon, this now 93-year-old master fisherman, all agreed.

The best of the best.

There was no one in the Port Angeles fishing fleet, past or present, that did not look up to him. No one.

A week before the fisherman’s wife made it a point to go with her man and her young son, to meet him, where he was currently residing in a nursing home.

To thank him.

She did not have much of a chance, to extend gratitude. The wise mentor was still teaching. Without missing a beat from their last visit,  the retired master fisherman  asked her husband what he did when he wasn’t working on the boat.  He talked about how he himself had cleared property for a Girl Scout camp out at Lake Sutherland because his two daughters were Girl Scouts.

The mentor said, “You can’t work on the boat every day”.

In that moment, the fisherman’s wife had a strong gut feeling that she and her husband would grow old together.

Moving forward a week, back into the boat yard. A plan was made, in the Port Angeles Boatyard that day, to visit the retired fleet elder. How to support his wife. As often as possible. All agreed, there was a need to give back.

A copy of the historical West Coast trolling documentary, “Coming Home Was Easy”, was handed to the new guy in the fleet, now getting ready for his third fishing season. A Jimmi Hendrix hoochie along with it.

Another copy of the commercial fishing  documentary would be put on the hatch cover of a 47′ wood troller tied up in the Port Angeles boat basin within the next few days. For the fellow that fished the boat. One of the best salmon trollers that the West Coast fishing fleet would likely ever produce. His former skipper was interviewed in that documentary.

The title of that West Coast fishing documentary, “Coming Home Was Easy”, were words that belonged to the father of the fisherman’s wife.

She typed on the laptop keyboard the Oregon State University web-address of where the video could be purchased:

http://seagrant.oregonstate.edu/sgpubs/coming-home-was-easy-video

In the video, she knew, was video footage of a cherry tree. It represented the cherry tree in the backyard of the Port Angeles home where she grew up.

The fisherman’s wife looked out the window. The breeze had backed off and the blossoms from the plum tree in the backyard had quit falling. The grass was drying and she needed to mow the lawn.

She hoped her daughter would fish with her husband that upcoming season. At least for a trip. Everyone in the boatyard agreed, that would be good. Living on the boat would come back to her first-born. The fisherman’s wife felt that in her gut. She knew. The fishing couple had taken their  daughter up the Inside Passage, from Port Angeles, when she was an 8-month-old baby.  Their girl would fish the entire season with them that year, in SE Alaska for 5 1/2 months, away from their house in Sequim, WA.

The fisherman’s wife hoped her son would have a chance to fish a boat on his own before the Port Angeles fishing fleet disappeared entirely. She hoped it never would. Disappear entirely. That future, however, was not for her to know.

My husband and son with an ocean-caught King Salmon aboard the Saint Jude. Fishing Season 2013.

My husband and son with an ocean-caught King Salmon aboard the Saint Jude. Fishing Season 2013.

She had kids to think about. Boat kids.

Fishing is in the blood. Once a boat kid, always a boat kid.

The fisherman’s wife had that very conversation with the master welder that had fixed the boat. He had been a fisherman in Canada, near the Yukultas, decades before. A salmon troller. His boys had spent time fishing on his boat when they were very young. Once again, the trust the fisherman and his wife had placed in him to make the boat right, would quite possibly mean the difference between a good fishing season and a poor fishing season. His work, the difference between life and death.

The master welder, too, had been given a copy of “Coming Home Was Easy”.

Salt Water

As she observed the last remaining shimmering water drops on the green blades of grass outside, tears sprang into the eyes of the fisherman’s wife. The hue of her tears held exactly the same rainbow colors, reflecting in the light, as that on the scales of a fresh ocean-caught King Salmon.





The Saint Jude Goes Home

13 01 2015

Last night I dreamt that my husband drowned.

In fact, about the time I had the dream, my husband was skippering the Saint Jude somewhere off of the Washington coast in the dead of night. Solo. Al and I had driven our van down to Astoria two days before. Stayed two nights in a nice hotel overlooking the Columbia River. Waiting. Waiting…

For better weather.

The first look we had at our boat was with a mixture of pride and some sadness. She has new battle scars on the starboard side. Scratches from a cleat that had broke off the dock in a storm a couple months before. The Port of Astoria harbor master had called with the news. After that incident, the boat had been moved to a berth right in from of the harbor office. Waiting…waiting…to go home.

The Saint Jude leaving Astoria, Oregon to cross the Columbia River Bar on her way to Port Angeles, Washington on January 12, 2015

The Saint Jude leaving Astoria, Oregon to cross the Columbia River Bar on her way to Port Angeles, Washington on January 12, 2015

Winter can be a tough time to get a small fishing boat up the coast. From Astoria, Oregon to Port Angeles, Washington

In Winter storms, weather buoys break their moorings and get washed ashore. Wind can come up unexpectedly. For the Saint Jude, it is about a 28 hour run, depending on wind, tides, and currents. Straight through without stopping.

My job is to take care of the kids at home. Try not to show the anxiety. It showed up in my sleep.

Our kids

Our kids

Shaking off the dream of a drowned husband I got out of bed this morning and checked for text messages from my man, the skipper of the Saint Jude. There were none. Then a bit later, in real time, one appears.

Him: At Tatoosh (with a time stamp of 6:44 AM).

Me:  (immensely grateful my husband is alive!) Did you sleep?

Him:  Slowed down and ran 5 knots for 2 1/2 hours off of LaPush. Out deep without having to drift in trough. Cat napped. With radar watch alarm set. South current pushed the  boat along at 1200 rpm.

At this point, my husband has been at the wheel for 19 hours. He untied the Saint Jude from the dock at the Port of Astoria about noon the day before (January 12, 2015).  

Him: See the lights of Neah Bay

Me:  Are u planning to sleep more once in the strait? Anchored I mean?

Him: Have flood tide till 9 am.

Me:  What I mean is do u plan to sleep anchored  somewhere?

Him: Bucking E wind here a bit. I will let you know after listening to Canadian Wx for strait.

Me: Okay, are u inside the strait yet?

Him: Yes.

Me: Good!  Can u send some morning photos  – our fans will love those!

Him:  Wind in strait increasing 20 after noon. I will keep coming and take some pics.

Me:  I see. ETA to PA?

Him:  S.E. winds increasing today off S coast Vancouver Island. E 8 this morning at Race Rocks. Making 8 knots with current now, ETA around 2 PM.

Me:  Yes. Photos of Sunrise?

Him:  Probably closer to 3. Will take sunrise pics when it gets here.

Me:  Okay. I will come to PA when Cody gets out of school.

Him:  U.S. Wx calls for light E winds in straight. Canadian Wx has gale warnings on S coast this morning. Will see you and Cody after school.

Me:  Yeah – we know how to pick our weather windows don’t we?

Him:  Yes. We do.

Photos from the boat follow. Images of the radar and the depth sounder. Slightly blurry because it is still dark in the wheelhouse. Still, the image on the radar clearly shows the outline of the breakwater in front of the Makah Marina. A photo  is sent that was taken right around day break. It a a darker image and I ask my husband if it is Waadah Island.

Him:  Must be big lings on the sounder back there.

Me: Oh, Seal Rock!

The meaning is rich. Seal Rock is at the mouth of the Sail River, near Neah Bay, Washington. The site where my paternal grandparents, Willard and Hazel Peters, owned a fishing resort from the 1940’s to the mid-1970’s. One gorgeous summer day, I caught my first fish on my own – a ling cod – off of the end of a floating dock there. King Salmon were weighed at the base of that dock by sportsmen from all over the country. It is one of my earliest memories of life. King Salmon.

Several more photos follow. Sail Rock. Propeller wash from the stern.

No more words.

I take my son to school. Return home to start laundry, make the bed, and wash the dishes. To care for the six family pets. To write.

My daughter comes home from school  and I tell her that her dad will be home this evening. That we need to be very kind as he will be very tired. I tell her it is dangerous to bring a boat home from the Columbia River, the Graveyard of the Pacific, to Port Angeles in Winter. It is a calculated risk. One that was instigated by the skipper of the Saint Jude having a tooth break below the gum line while on the tuna grounds in September. I tell her it would have been even more dangerous for a skipper to drive a boat with an abscessed tooth. So the Saint Jude stayed put in Astoria while her skipper waited for his tooth to be pulled and the infection to clear. By then, Winter storms were back to back with only tiny weather windows. I tell my daughter that her father beat a gale.

It is close to noon. 24 hours since the Saint Jude left the Port of Astoria yesterday afternoon.

Her skipper will be very tired when he gets to the dock today. When I pick him up, I will help him check the tie-up lines. Make sure the power cord is secure. Make sure the electrical panel switches are off. That the radios are off. That the battery switch is in the proper position. That the auto pilot, radar and fathometer are off. Make sure that the heat lamp is on.

My son will be with me. A third generation salmon troller. I will explain to  him, as I did my daughter, why we brought the boat up from Astoria, in the middle of Winter for Spring boat work. I will tell him that it is so his father can spend more time with the family while he works on the boat. It is so his dad can be home to watch him crossing over from being a Cub Scout to being a Boy Scout. It is so he can be at home when our son works on his go-cart project that will help him earn a Supernova award in Cub Scouts.  It is so our son can see the boat work getting done, to help paint the bottom, to maybe be on hand when the zincs get welded. He has the fishing in his bones, our son does.  Some boat kids do. Like me. Having the boat home soothes my soul.

Commercial fishing is not the kind of profession that is taught in a classroom or from a textbook. Time at the boat yard and on the ocean is the best way to learn about boats…and fishing. Our son’s education, in the ways of the sea, has begun. As our daughter’s high school education is ending. She will graduate this Spring. Both of her parents will be nearby as she gets ready for the next major transition in her life. Truth is, I asked my husband to bring the boat home. For our family, for all of us. Our favorite welder has already been contacted about the scratches on the Starboard side of the Saint Jude. He has reassured us that it can all be fixed. We are already pre-scheduled to have work done on the stiff arms and to have the repaired generator put back in the engine room.

The Saint Jude will have the best of care. She is part of our family. It will be good to have her home.

At 1:25 PM another text appears.

Him: Am 2 hours out from Ediz Hook Bouy, 12 miles out.

Me:  Awesome!

Him:  Love u.

Me:  Love you too. More photos follow from the boat.

Him:  That is Tongue Point.

Me:  Thank-you for bringing our boat home.

Him:  Thank you and Kendra and Cody. And the Glass Family.

Note: While Al and I were in Astoria waiting for a good weather window so Al could get the boat home, our son stayed two nights with the Glass family. They took him to see a U.S. Coast Guard helicopter at the Coast Guard air station on Ediz Hook and texted photos to of us of our son in the pilot’s seat, grinning from ear to ear.  Zach Glass is a U.S. Coast Guard helicopter pilot and we are eternally grateful to he and his family for his service.

O, God, Thy Sea Is So Great And My Boat Is So Small – Breton Fisherman’s Prayer





The Thanksgiving Table

22 11 2014

The Thanksgiving Table.





Where Is Home?

15 04 2014

 

Notes from a fish wife asking the cosmic question: Where is home?

Fishing Season 2014 – Week 2

My husband, Al, is out on his second fishing trip. As he said he planned to be. Still, I got up early this morning, made a quick cup of instant coffee, and dialed the boat cell phone. Just in case.

I love talking with Al, about fishing, in the morning. When the kids are still in bed. On week-ends, when there is not the rush of getting breakfast and everything ready for a day of school. If I’m really lucky, he is actually fishing and I’ll talk a King Salmon into biting for him. That’s just boat talk and fishing lingo. Radio chatter. It can’t really happen quite that way. It’s just how fishing partners speak to one another. Even long-distance from hundreds of miles away, I feel as if I am in that wheelhouse, watching a spring pump back up near the trolling pole. Listening to the cowbell ring. Hoping for a clatter, where more fish bite all at once.

This morning though, I quietly sipped the coffee made too strong, and thought about where the boat was. Robotic automatic voice mail messages do not make for good conversation.  The view out to the backyard, of a newly leafed-out Katsura tree, a freshly scrubbed deck, and snow-topped Olympic Mountains gives way to the sun-kissed sparkle of a blue sea. In my mind.

For years, I intentionally kept my mind off of the boat.

Instead, I took college classes, finished an associate degree and picked up a Bachelor’s degree. I volunteered here and there and I worked part-time. Some of the time. I contemplated careers that would work with Al’s fishing.

The one career that seemed to make the most sense would have been nursing. I had the associate degree. I just needed to refresh to reactivate my license.

That would not happen. The book studying went fine. The clinical evaluation in Spokane was okay. The actual working with clinical evaluation in a hospital was a dismal failure. 20 years of not working in that field was too much. There was no way I would be able to be competent without going through an entire nursing program again.

I continued to focus on raising the kids at home. Devoted more time to marketing fish. (You can check out our fishing family facebook page at: https://www.facebook.com/DungenessSeaworks  )  That is where things have been for awhile.

Til last year. When I was on the boat. For a couple weeks. It all came back!

There was no feeling of incompetency. No lag in decision-making. It was almost as if I had never left.

Trying to remember dozens of medications and nursing procedures compared to remembering how to land a King Salmon. How to put the auto-pilot on u-turn. How to clean a fish well enough for the white tablecloth market.

It was easy to tell where I have spent most of my life. Those that have known me better in recent years would perhaps think that I have been taking a back seat to the fishing and  embrace being a stay-at-home mom, a “seasonal single-parent”, for the best part of my life. They are partially right.

The other best part of my life has been on the deck of a boat. As a commercial fisherman’s wife, it is true, I’ve been “seasonally single parenting” for the most part of the past 15 years.

Before that, though, I fished. A lot.

Starting off as a boat kid/deckhand at 12-years-old, I fished at least part of every salmon trolling season (except two, as a kid, when I needed to have and to recover from bone surgeries) until I was pregnant with my first-born. At 31-years-old. Even then I fished up until 4 weeks before the due date! After my  daughter came along, she and I spent two full seasons on board the boat.

I came to appreciate the nuances of fishing and boat life better than I have ever come to understand full years on land in the past 16 years or so. 

Part of that is my fault. It is easy to get addicted to the sea. To the thrum of sea life that is everywhere. Birds, whales, dolphins, otters. To get used to the relative isolation from everyday worries. To enjoy the comforts of having another adult around, most of the time, to pitch in with the work. To waking and working beside my husband, every day.

To me, that is home. “Home (Where I Wanted To Go)” – Coldplay

 

 

Home, here on land, is something that has always made me feel a little uneasy. Especially when Al is at sea, without me.  I feel a little like a fish out of water. I have to make it a point to focus on everyday tasks. How to interact with others. How to keep track of time.

This is seldom the case on the boat. Time has little meaning throughout the average fishing day. It starts at sunrise and ends at sunset. Mostly. Everything seems to fall into a rhythm. The primary focus is to catch fish!

Folks that hang out on the docks, also, seem to understand that people that have been at sea are not often particularly articulate.

In my experience, we are all a little quirky.

Quirkiness is hard to adjust for on land. Even the standard for personal hygiene has a different protocol for my home on land compared to the boat life. If I don’t shower for a few days, here, people will notice. On a boat, it simply means a freezer trip has recently begun. No one cares! It is more important to conserve water to make it through what could be a two week trip or longer.

Still, I am grateful for being able to spend so much time with the kids on terra firma. To step out on a warm cedar deck with bare feet. To feel warm sand, at a beach, between my toes. To admire the colorful flowers planted around the house and to watch one of my children water them.  To walk with a friend who is only a phone call and a few minutes car drive away.  To smell the freshly cut grass. To hear the breeze rustling the new Spring leaves in the trees. To help my son with his homework in a quiet room with every conceivable comfort close at hand.  To watch old McGyver episodes with the kids on a Saturday night. To shower with plenty of hot water and freshly laundered towels that don’t smell even a little bit of boat.

These are privileges in my life as a land-lubber.

I’ve made a bet with Al, for the past two Springs, on where the best fishing spots would be for the King Salmon openers. I can no longer keep my mind off the boat. All those years of fishing experience seem to be roaring to the surface from some latent part of my being. When Al tells me where he thinks the fleet is catching the most fish, I am rarely surprised when it turns out to be true. Often, it is where I told him where I thought the fish would be.

Maybe I was not meant to spend a lot of time working in the halls of a hospital or nursing home. Maybe things have unfolded exactly the way they should be unfolding. Maybe I am meant to fish. With my husband.

My husband, wherever he is.

“Home is wherever I’m with you” – Edward Sharpe & The Magnetic Zeros

 

 

Singing, ” Home is when I’m alone with you”.

 

Where is home for you? Is it where you want to be?  Do you have more than one home? Do you imagine living somewhere else?